Thursday, April 21, 2016

Kurti Pattern/Design-4

Tutorial on how to sew and design kurti
Today I am showing you a Kurti design with patch work and machine embroidery. This is a designer kurti  differenet color cloth are used in front and back. On the top of front side black color patch is being attached. First of all  draw a neck, trace motif for embroidery and complete it. For embroidery zigzag stitch is being used with normal sewing thread. For the outline back stitch is used with silver thread. If you know machine embroidery you can complete outline with machine, as this was my first machine embroidery project I found easy to outline it with hand embroidery. After comleting embrodery iron it and then taking back part cloth make draft according to your measurements, instructions are given below:
Drafting instructions for kurti and sleeves
A-K is kurti's length.
A-E is shoulder width.
A-D is neck width(standard is 3")
A-B is back neck
A-C is front neck
E-F is armhole cutting of back side.
E-G is front side armhole cutting.
H-G is 1/2 of waist measurement +1"
I-J is 1/2 of hip measurement +1/2"
K-L is 1/2 width of kurti(ghera).
Sleeve Draft.
A-D is half of armhole width.
A-B is length of sleeves.
B-C is arm width.
AFE1D is back side curve of sleeve.
AFED is front side curve of sleeve.
Draft and cut both arms with black color cloth.
Sewing Instructions
Take fusion paper draw neckline over it, cut it, place the glue side of fusion paper on the wrong side of cloth, stick it with the help of iron, cut extra cloth.
On the right side of cloth stitch neckline with fushion side facing up, turn the cloth side and finish neckline with hem or machine stitch.
embroidery motif for kurti

cutting front and back part of kurti

preparing neckline for kurti
Prepare back neck with bias strip.
Joint both shoulder part.
Attach sleeves.
Finally prepare slit parts and bottom folding.

Wednesday, November 18, 2015

Palazzo Pants | Easy DIY

how to draft, cut and sew Palazzo pants with yourself
Now a days Palazzo Pants are in fashion, from straight leg cut to full flared palazzos so many versions can be seen.
In this easy version its cutting is simliar to straight trousers with a slight variation in cutting method from crotch area towards bottom folding, different types of palazzo can be made.
Full flared palazzo or sharara cutting is different and required more fabric, will show  that in seprate post.
Half flared palazzo ( as shown in picture No. 1 of first image) can be made with following instructions of this post.
Detailed instructions for marking, cutting and sewing palazzo pants are given below:
Height = Ready height of pants + 2 & 1/2" ( 2" for waist band and 1/2" for bottom folding.
Hip measurement = Hip/4 + 3"( for example 36/4+3=12")
Palazoo draft has been shown below:
instructions for drafting palazzo pants

As per draft:
A-H is height.
A-C= crotch length =height/4+2" (for example 40/4+2=12"( 2 " is for waist band if attaching waist band seprate than  these 2" will not required).
D-F= 2 & 1/2"
Draw a curve from B to F joining E to it.
H-I is width of leg.
From H to I  you can take I 1, I 2, I 3 or I 4 will decide the width of legs. This will also decide the shape and flare of Palazzo pants.
Sewing Instructions:
First open the folded cloth pieces you will get 2 leg parts, place them on each other and sew them for crotch area( B-E-F) from both sides.
Fold it in the way that crotch stitch line comes on center.
Prepare waist band by inserting elastic in it, secure elastic with another stitch.
Stitch from one leg folding to another leg folding , take 1/2 '' of cloth and then fold both bottom leg parts if want to attach lace to it you can also attach lace to it.( as shown black palazzo)
Note: Flare of palazzo totally depends upon the width  and texture of fabric.
As you seen in Pic this black palazzo is made from 1 metre of cloth, I have used glaze cotton fabric with 58" width( double araz cloth) as one metre is 39" and palazzo ready height is 40" by  attaching 4" lace on bottom , top waist band folding can be easily made with 1 metre of cloth.
2 . For  flared palazzo use soft and elastic fabric and for straight palazzo use stiff fabric.
Leg opening width depends upon your choice and comfort.
In this tutorial I have given easy method, for fitted palazzo pants from wiast to hip area as available in market, they use straight waist band on front and elastic on back side,  from crotch area to knee point a slanting curve is used reducing 1" of fabric and then curve towards bottom to give proper fitting.
instructions for sewing palazzo pants

Hope you will find this tutorial helpful.