Wednesday, November 18, 2015

Palazzo Pants | Easy DIY

how to draft, cut and sew Palazzo pants with yourself
Now a days Palazzo Pants are in fashion, from straight leg cut to full flared palazzos so many versions can be seen.
In this easy version its cutting is simliar to straight trousers with a slight variation in cutting method from crotch area towards bottom folding, different types of palazzo can be made.
Full flared palazzo or sharara cutting is different and required more fabric, will show  that in seprate post.
Half flared palazzo ( as shown in picture No. 1 of first image) can be made with following instructions of this post.
Detailed instructions for marking, cutting and sewing palazzo pants are given below:
Height = Ready height of pants + 2 & 1/2" ( 2" for waist band and 1/2" for bottom folding.
Hip measurement = Hip/4 + 3"( for example 36/4+3=12")
Palazoo draft has been shown below:
instructions for drafting palazzo pants

As per draft:
A-H is height.
A-C= crotch length =height/4+2" (for example 40/4+2=12"( 2 " is for waist band if attaching waist band seprate than  these 2" will not required).
D-F= 2 & 1/2"
Draw a curve from B to F joining E to it.
H-I is width of leg.
From H to I  you can take I 1, I 2, I 3 or I 4 will decide the width of legs. This will also decide the shape and flare of Palazzo pants.
Sewing Instructions:
First open the folded cloth pieces you will get 2 leg parts, place them on each other and sew them for crotch area( B-E-F) from both sides.
Fold it in the way that crotch stitch line comes on center.
Prepare waist band by inserting elastic in it, secure elastic with another stitch.
Stitch from one leg folding to another leg folding , take 1/2 '' of cloth and then fold both bottom leg parts if want to attach lace to it you can also attach lace to it.( as shown black palazzo)
Note: Flare of palazzo totally depends upon the width  and texture of fabric.
As you seen in Pic this black palazzo is made from 1 metre of cloth, I have used glaze cotton fabric with 58" width( double araz cloth) as one metre is 39" and palazzo ready height is 40" by  attaching 4" lace on bottom , top waist band folding can be easily made with 1 metre of cloth.
2 . For  flared palazzo use soft and elastic fabric and for straight palazzo use stiff fabric.
Leg opening width depends upon your choice and comfort.
In this tutorial I have given easy method, for fitted palazzo pants from wiast to hip area as available in market, they use straight waist band on front and elastic on back side,  from crotch area to knee point a slanting curve is used reducing 1" of fabric and then curve towards bottom to give proper fitting.
instructions for sewing palazzo pants

Hope you will find this tutorial helpful.

Thursday, October 1, 2015

24 Panel Anarkali Tutorial

complete tutorial on 24 panel anarkali including drafting, cutting and sewing
Today I am showing you 24 panels anarkali tutorial. This is different from my earlier tutorial, which was made with less cloth. In this anarkali total 24 panels are used 12 for front side and 12 for back side. Cutting of 20 panels is  same and 4 side panels is different. Draft of this is as shown below.
how to draft 24 panel anarkali

you have to add 1/4 " on both side of each panel, hence 1/2'' extra cloth is required for every single panel.
A-B is a shoulder width, if it is 14" you have to take 20" for front as well as back side.
F-G is a waist measurement, same method will apply on.
Bottom width of each panel is upto you it can be from 5-8".
For cutting panels or kalis you have to take 2 sheets of newspaper attach them
and take whole length of your anarkali. With the help of  image make a draft according to your measurements. cut only  one single center panel and one side panel , place these panels on cloth and
cut 20 panels of center panel and 4 side panels.
various steps invovled in making 24 panel anarkali including front patch
Sewing Instructions:
First join 10 center  panels by taking one straight and one slanting panel part
and then join 2 side panels on both side.
Prepare the back side in the same way.
Place them on each other fold them, make draft of shoulders, neck andarmhole.
If you have to attach a patch on front side, first attach patch on front side, you
can make design of your choice, I have used cloth buttons and loops made
with dori.
Attach shoulder parts, prepare back neck with the help of bais binding.
At the bottom part attach border or lace whatever you like.
Note: Anarkali's side shape is similiar to A - line, hence if you try to attach
border on top of fabric you will find it difficult because of its circular shape so
we attach border on the edge of fabric, this will increase kurta's height , at the corners add extra border to give proper shape as seen in this picture.
how to attach border on bottom or ghera of anarkali
stitch from armhole till bottom on bothsides.
Finally attach sleeves, your 24 panels anarkali is ready.
 I have prepared this 24 panels anarkali with cotton sari, for this I have to cut
upper and lower borders first and then panels.
Front patch is made with sari border and border is also used on sleeves.
I hope you will find this tutorial helpful.